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Elephant Safari

Band On The Run...
"If the Tiger is the spirit of the jungle, then the Elephant is its body..."

- Dr.Raman Sukumar, (Elephant Research Scientist) 
 

Then all of a sudden, the green foliage turns an ashen, gloomy, Grey. A fine dust is all over, covering everything.

Granite dust, says Manjunath sourly and points out to the naked face of rock, whitish grey, fresh from the blast. As we look, the hillside blows out smoke, like tens of smokers lighting up, and then the rumble of the dynamite, as the sound echoes across the low valleys. "Quarrying is illegal. But who is to stop it? Even the local Panchayat member is a partner in the company. For the elephants this blasting sounds are confusing. It gives them the wrong signals."

We turn right after about 15 minutes of driving on the Banergahatta-Ragihalli road.

The freshly tarred road, courtesy the granite quarry owners, swoops down, meandering into the valley, before climbing up and coming to an end in a cluster of mudbaked houses. A Couple of the village elders come forward and greet Nagesh and Manjunath. They complain about crop damage and the shortage of fireworks. Manjunath listens with concern.

From here on it is by foot. We have to reach higher ground in order to catch the trail of the elephants. We move out in single file.
        

   

The narrow foot trails loop up and down like a ribbon, and after an hour of walking, we finally reach the crest of the hill on the southern boundary of the Park. Stopping only to check elephant dung. Mounds of greenish black speckled with orange coloured fruit seeds. The elephants contribution to seed dispersal and plant regeneration. Most of the hill tops and scattered areas on their sides are shorn of foliage. We are standing on almost bare rock. Manjunath and Nagesh scan the opposite hill. The villagers point to the crest. And sure enough there is the puff of smoke followed by sharper crack. This time it is the fireworks. The drive is on as the forest workers are chasing them down the crest of the hill. Now all we have to do is wait in silence. Each of us squat down on the rock and eagerly focus on the opposite hill.

It is 4.30 in the evening now. It should take them at least an hour to get to where we are. Even from our vantage point it is difficult to spot the elephants among the dense cover.

The smoke rings of the firecrackers and the crashing sounds are clearly audible mixed with the whooping sounds of the forest guards adding to the din. The smoke rings get closer and suddenly Manjunath points to a clearing where we manage to catch a flash of black as the foliage parts for the herd.

A single elephant needs more than 10sqkms of land for sustenance. They are known to travel upto 600 kms in a single migration. A herd of 9 elephants from Banerghatta suddenly landed up at Tirupati, where they are till today. They slide downhill on their rumps in single file. A great sight. Only females with calf and solitary male tuskers are known to be violent when provoked. We’ll have to move further over to the side of the hill to get a closer view, says Manjunath. We move quickly along the shoulder of the hill and go down further to a clearing. From here we can see a break in the corridor of foliage. "Sssssssssssh!...say the villagers here they come. Craig gets in position with his handycam and I squat behind him. And suddenly they burst into focus. With the sound of cracking foliage, the herd is moving right in front of our eyes. More than twenty in all. At a jogging pace, the larger ones in front and the calves in between. All in single file. Like soldiers at a dress rehearsal.

And then it hit me. They were running like refugees. Not knowing what lies for them across the border. But, sadly unlike refugees, they’ll be chased right back. By firecrackers and forest guards of neighbouring Tamil Nadu. Little time to sleep and even less food to eat.

The sheer thrill of seeing them in the wild on our very first watch is immediately washed away by a feeling of helplessness for the elephants. The ride back into town is in silence broken only by packs of rose ringed parakeets squawking away in the twilight. It is the evening of Karthika Paurnami and the full moon rises over the hills of Banergahatta and reflecting off the corridors of jungle where a herd of elephants are on the run.

I lean out of the window to look up at the moon before it disappears behind Bungler’s real estate skyline,

The once familiar shape of the man on the moon looks a little different tonight.

It looks more like an elephant.

By Monu Surendran

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